Restoring and Collecting Antique Beaded Purses by Evelyn Haertig     ISBN 0943294-02-9, Hardbound, 210pgs., full color, $49.95 plus $6.00 S&H, Gallery Graphics Press, PO Box 5457, Carmel, CA 93921, www.glasperla.com , glasperla@redshift.com

Restoring and Collecting Antique Beaded Purses is Evelyn’s fourth book on antique purses and is the "to die for" book many collectors will desire. It is a must have magnificent book, loaded with tips and techniques for restoring antique bags and creating new ones. You will find the inside scoop on purse linings and frames with illustrations and photographs as guides. Specific bag types are discussed along with how they were put together and finishing the fringe. Lavish color plates of antique bags fill page after page and are a delight to the eyes.

There is extensive information on bead and fiber as well as insight about tools of the past. Illustrations are provided of how needles were made, silk was spun and glass beads were drawn.

There are seven chapters, broken down into "The evolution of the beaded purse," "Restoration tools and techniques," "Knowing about the glorious beads," "Fringing; the finishing touch," "Restoring body damage," "The importance of frames and linings" and "Evaluating and collecting patterns."

Chapter 1 is extensive covering misers chatelaines and reticules. This chapter does not only detail the evolution of beaded bags but also jumps right in to the meat of attaching a chatelaine body to the frame and hook, and at the same times tells you how they were originally put together. You will learn how to repair a misers bag including tips about adding fringe. Evelyn provides color and black and white photographs of all three bag types and many examples of reticules. There are two comprehensive pages with explanations about the printed colored patterns and beading of those patterns with several examples provided.

Tools and techniques is a treasured chapter with information about needles, magnifiers, scissors, crochet hooks, knitting needles, thread and other related tools along with illustrations of needles being made in the past. There is information regarding each item as to what it is used for and practical applications. I love the details provided such as 21 cents for a 25 yard spool of silk twist thread in 1900; little facts we never think about but are great collector trivia tidbits

Chapter 3 is about beads, how they were made, including illustrations showing glass being drawn to form the beads, descriptions of some of the beads used in the past and an explanation of the "null bead," the "0" in seed bead sizing such as 11/0. Color bead chart examples are provided as well, some dating back to 1899. Hints about problems with beading is discussed from a collector’s point of view for repair of bags.

Fringing is a subject that is discussed along with color plates of antique fringed bags as examples. Evelyn compares various bags, those in which the fringe enhances the bags and others that do not. If you are a collector and purchased a bag that is missing all the fringe, this chapter will help you decide which fringe best suites the bag you are repairing. How to instructions for making fringe, types of beads that tone down and extend the pattern plus additional tips are included.

Restoration techniques include color images of antique bags as examples and follows with illustrations and instructions. Knitting, netting, loom weaving, canvas embroidery and crochet with beads are some of the examples. My only disappointment is the illustration of beads crocheted in the round with the beads setting inside the crocheted fabric when they should be setting on the outside of the crocheted fabric . This incorrect illustration in one variation or another continues to be included in newly published books. This is unfortunate since it is incorrect and misleading to those new to the subject. I am sure Evelyn used this example as many other authors, assuming it was correct. Bead crochet is the least covered of the techniques in her book.

Although bags were made using various techniques in the past, most of the exquisite patterned bags with very tiny beads were bead knitted. This is the area Evelyn specializes in. There is an extensive coverage of repair to antique bags with bead knitting compared to the other techniques. One of the knitting illustrations shows a front view of the piece with beads and the needles are to the back for easier viewing of a bead pattern evolving on the knitted piece. Bead embroidery on canvas with beads is explained along with antique bag examples. There is a close up photo of a bag section for viewing in detail. Rare methods of bag making are included such as netting on a mold. Antique beaded bag sections, both in color images and graphs are identified and discussed.

Frames and Linings offers the scoop on how to repair your bag lining and add a metal frame. Sections of this chapter are broken down into various steps for working a lining, selecting the color for the lining and precautions in dealing with antique fabrics and frames. Frames include information on center hinged frames, those made of celluloid and contemporary frames. You will find out what a tab is and why it is part of some purse frames.

Extensive instructions and recommendations, facts and historical information about frames and linings are provided. Different type chains, gemstones and other items attached to the purse frame are included, as well as types of thread for attaching the frame to the bag and how to do it. The explanation of how to attach a frame to a bag was an eye opener to me. I had no idea that how you stitch that frame to the bag can protect or deteriorate it where they are joined. This is very important information for attaching bags to frames whether they are old or new. Trimming around the inside of the bag where the frame meets the bag is also explained.

Cleaning and repairing frames is an extensive subject; tips, techniques and materials "to use" and "not use" are identified. Historical data accompanies this information along with figures of bags and the frames that were attached to them. There are several metal frames shown in black and white for a basic idea of the various shapes and styles that were available at one time.

Evelyn offers examples of an identical bag worked with different frames and explains why one is more appropriate than the other as an enhancement to the bag design. There are several ornamented frames attached to breathtaking beaded bags. The Dancing Maidens with Swans and sterling frame is absolutely stunning, I don’t know which captures my eyes more, the bag with the swans or the sterling frame with dancing figures. Along with the gorgeous beaded bags, she includes exotic frames holding soft luxurious velvet type fabric bags. Looking at these bags makes me want to run in and make a velvet bag, of course I would have to add some beads. One frame is shaped like an elephant and another has a cameo in the center!

After all the how to and historical information, Evelyn tantalizes you with a selection of collectible beaded purses. Each of these bags are unique and I do not believe they have been included in any of her other books about bags. She relates historical information and her own critique of each bag. I found the Blue Iris with Lapis Frame extraordinary, of course all the bags in this section are. This bag just seemed to jump out at me as if they were real flowers or a very realistic painting. Bags in this section were made using various techniques. These examples are on pages 155 through 208 and I thoroughly enjoyed reading about every bag. The last section provides more extensive information on oriental rug patterns and several color plate examples are provided.

Evaluating Purses is the last subject discussed and helpful to collectors when making additions to or selling from one’s collection.

Evelyn’s love of purses and their history flows through her words and is evident in this massive compilation of research and information. Whether you are a purse collector, purse designer or just love to see lovely bags and learn all about them, this is the book for you. I highly recommend Restoring and Collecting Antique Beaded Purses as a valuable asset to your library and a joy to read.