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Dateline: July 1, 2005 |
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Purses have become a part of my studies and life pursuit. My interests in antique bags has also led me to ropes, masks, gloves, jewelry, chatelaines and other vintage items from the past with a romantic and mystic flavor. I hope you will join me in my search for more historical and identification information regarding purses and other vintage items. Any information you may have is appreciated and will be shared with our readers. |
Index:
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Note: In the antique purse literature there are many references to dates and centuries. Since the 17th century covers the years 1601 to 1700 and the 20th century covers the years 1901 to 2000, this can get confusing. I do not mix years and centuries. I use only the year of events. I hope this makes everything a little easier to understand. |
Vintage Information
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I will add bits and pieces of information as I catalog purses and vintage items and glean more information from my reference books. Idle talk and hearsay will sometimes be included and identified as such. This information will be updated regularly and old information deleted. A particular book listed next to text means this was the primary source of information. |
Thoughts The more I research our historical past of purses and vintage
accessories, I can not help but reflect over the romance that was associated with
these items. They were not just for utilitarian purposes, they were
beautiful objects that just happened to be utilitarian. A person
purchasing one of these items would treasure and appreciate the workmanship
that went into creating it. Today in a world of cell phones, travel from
one appointment to the next, off the racks clothing and disposable cosmetic
containers, it is easy to see why so many people are collecting these beautiful
vintage objects. To view or hold a beautiful purse or accessory from the
past brings the atmosphere of that time forward along with renewal of one's own
favorite memories: walks in the garden, romantic intrigue, dress up days,
family gatherings, friendship and holidays.
Vintage Finds 
Mary Libby, one of my friends,
sent me a large grouping of vintage crocheted buttons and a few made using stitchery.
Two groups are stitched to cards. Unfortunately, one group is black and
that makes it difficult to see the patterns. There are also several
buttons that are loose and I will be stitching them to counted cloth to preserve
them. Some of the buttons have glass beads included in the designs.
She also sent me a grouping of bead crocheted beads, crocheted around wooden beads. One grouping has old plastic pieces between the beads that looks like tortoise. It may be tortoise or some of the old Bakelite. There was also a oval shaped bead worked with vintage French crocheted fiber.
There are so many different bead
and button types, dating would encompass late 1880's to the early 1940's.
All these samples will be added to my Beadwork Samples as a way to preserve
Beadwork history.
Crocheted Bracelet Band
One of my
friends received several bracelet pieces from a friend. Each bracelet is crocheted and stapled onto
a stiff piece of cardboard. There is a
sticky paper on each cardboard piece indicating it is the compliments of Navy
Mothers Club #24, Tampa, Florida. On
the end of each bracelet is a thread loop.
My friend, Diana Norris and I have surmised these bracelets were
attached to a blouse with a button
on each sleeve embellish the sleeves. The thread is about a size #10 crochet white
thread with open spaces left in the piece.
Then pearls are strung so they set in the open spaces.
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Knitty-Knobby This Bead Knitted Rope belongs to one of my friend’s friends. It was lent to me so I could include an image in this article. The necklace is 36” in length not including the dangles. The thread is a metallic much like On The Surface New Metallics. This necklace was probably made in the 1970’s but could have been made earlier. Size 4mm plastic pearl coated beads were used with the metallic thread. A knitty-knobby tool was threaded and began the rope shape, then as the thread was worked on the knitty knobby, a bead was pulled up after every stitch made so that there are 4 beads around between the thread. The beads set back to the inside and the thread sets outside. This rope is very soft and supple so and you feel the fiber when you rub it rather than the beads. This rope could be made today with a knitty knobby using pearls, size 6/0 beads or other same size beads and New Metallics thread. |
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Beaded Necklace I found this necklace in a pile of doodads I purchased on a bead hunt. It is worked in one or two needle right angle weave using 2mm and 8mm beads for the strap section and some 10mm beads are included on the two fan shaped ends. The beads are most likely pearl coated plastic since the whole necklace is not extremely heavy. I would guess this necklace is from the 1950’s or a remake of the design in the 1970’s.
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Bead Crocheted Snake Ropes
These beaded snakes are often made in traditional colors and
patterns unique to the originating country and have been created for over 100 years.
The Bead Society of Great Britain, March 2003 issue, by David Pickler, comments
on his collection and he includes his website for a look at his collection http://mysite.freeserve.com/beadworksnake. There are color photos of two of the
snake ropes in the article as examples.
Both these ropes have the words, Turkish Prisoner, crocheted in beads, worked
in the underside of the snake belly. I catalog
beaded purses at local museums and one very small beaded pillow had the same
wording and the date 1884 back stitched in beads. David indicated some of his ropes in larger beads did not show
any thread compared to ropes made with smaller beads that did show thread. He wondered what the difference was between
the two and if perhaps different size crochet hooks would make a difference.
The type of crochet stitch, hook size and thread size all make a
difference. Bead slip stitch ropes do
not usually show any thread whether using large or small beads. Bead single crochet stitches will show
thread if a larger hook or thicker thread is used and will not if a smaller
hook and thin thread are used. There
are several variations of bead single crochet stitch which will allow for
different finishes.
David is looking for more historical information about beadwork snakes made by POW’s in camps during World War I. If you have any historical information you would like to pass on to him, you can email him at beadworksnakes@hotmail.com or on his website. I would also be interested in any historical information about bead crochet snakes of all types, not just POWs during WWI. If you have any vintage bead crochet snakes and can send an image, I will include it in my next update.
Vintage Information Beadwork in the past has been replicated using more than one technique. Elena Yurova's book, The Glorious Epoch of Beads in Russia, provides excellent examples such as Madonna in an Armchair. Elena compares photo 34 on page 38 with photo 37 on page 42, one technique bead loom weaving and the other bead embroidery. The difference in overall appearance and distortion of one technique over the other is discussed. You will find my review of Elena's book in my Book Reviews.
Purse, Bag & Rope Tips
Vintage Bag Pricing When you purchase a book on the subject of collectible bags and it includes a price list, it is not likely you will find the same type bags for those listed prices. Most authors of vintage bags list the price a bag should sell for based on the current market value when the book was published. Today bags are selling for much more than listed prices in price guides. This is because there is a vintage bag craze and people are purchasing them at premium prices today. A bag that would have sold for $100 three years ago may now sell for $1000. Some of the scenic bags sell for $5000 and more. The most valuable bags are those that are in perfect condition. Those with minor repair problems can still bring a good sum. Bags that are deteriorating bring a lower price. Bag frames are also in high demand. The more unique or ornate, the more expensive they are. All types of vintage bags are in demand today including scenics, florals, mesh, embroidered, pettipoint and swags. Many collectors are buying up the old bags for their collection and eventually there will be little of the vintage bags available for purchase or to view at stores. There are still vintage bags in museums for viewing, however, you usually have to make an appointment to see the collection as they are not always on display. Each museum may have many bags but be limited in diversity of design or style. If you are lucky you may find a vintage bag at garage sales or thrift stores for a good price.
Vintage Bag Madness If you want to see the bag madness that is going on, go to ebay and check out the vintage bags up for bids. There is probably more massive sales of vintage bags on ebay than anywhere else. It is somewhat like what has happened to the African trade beads. About 15 to 20 years ago African traders traveled through the USA selling trade beads. They had the most amazing collection of beads not only from Africa but from many areas in Europe that had made their way down to Africa through trade in the past. Gorgeous Venetian beads, ancient beads and other unbelievable finds were laid out in the trader's motel room to sell. Today, if a trader comes through, you seldom see the beautiful beads of the past because they have all been purchased. Traders still have a variety of beads and something for everyone, just not those vintage beads I used to see. If they do have something special, the price will be special too because there may not be any more of those beads for purchasing next time. If you do come across a great vintage bag find at a good price, consider yourself lucky.
Art Deco The 1920's and 1930's were the heyday of Art Deco and continues to be a great resource for design ideas. Whether you want to make jewelry, bags or other ornamental wear, a book of motifs from that era will give you much inspiration. Dover Books continues to reproduce books of the past with motifs and designs applicable to vintage creations. Just looking through Art Deco Jewelry Designs was a fun experience. I found several necklace and pendant designs to convert to purses, beading and bead crochet. The way one section of a piece connects into another can be replicated into flat beading. Some of the color graduations and cut pieces, one worked onto another, could easily be graphed for bead loom weaving. Use books with vintage designs and motifs as a reference for your creations today.
Conservation of Purses Before you do anything to an antique purse, you may want to check with antique dealers and ask about how valuable the purse is and how you can repair it without changing the original design. You can also check with your local museum and see if a conservationist is on staff. That person should know about cleaning solvents and repair. You may have to pay a fee for this type of information but it will be worth it if your purse is very valuable. They also may know of someone who restores antique purses. One word of advice, never, never put glue on antique purses, you will destroy the fibers of the purse. Evelyn Haertig's new book, Restoring and Collecting Antique Beaded Purses will help in repair of your bags.
Glass Disease This is a relatively new subject to most of us. The Bead Society of Great Britain are beginning to include information about it in their newsletters. I have only read a few articles about it and still need much more information before I will feel knowledgeable on the subject. If you have some old beadwork or beaded purses and see that some of the glass is pebbled on the surface or has disruptions in it, this is some of the problems of glass disease. This usually begins when glue is applied onto the glass to attach it to suede, leather or other fibers. The elements of the glue and the fiber combine and become toxic to glass over a period of years. This is why I never, never use glue to attach a cabochon unless it is for a stud earring finding or item that has to have a fixative. Amber and opals as well as other natural materials can also deteriorate from glues and fixatives. If you are making a beadwork item as an heirloom, keep glue out of the project.
Silk and Satin Purse Liners If you have made a bag and want to line it with silk, thrift shops are your best bet. Look for dresses made of white, off white and light colors. You can usually find a whole silk dress for $10 to $15, much cheaper than purchasing a small piece of silk fabric to make the liner. Often the dress will only have one small soiled spot and be of a high quality silk. Hand wash the dress and press it before cutting it. Check my Inside Threads page for information about suitable washing solutions for delicate fabrics and fibers. If you crocheted, knitted or made the bag with hand stitchery and do not use a sewing machine, check with dry cleaners that do alterations and sewing centers. Many sewing centers where sewing machines are sold will work small projects like liners for you or have a list of customers who do such work. This is a way to get our liners made and have them look professional. There is nothing worse than to spend hours making a gorgeous bag and then put in a haphazard lining that looks sloppy.
Beadwrangler References
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Purses are an integral part of the bead and fiber world. As a result, you will find information about purses and images of purses throughout Beadwrangler's Bead and Fiber Junction. Here are some places to check out for more purse information. |
Book Reviews: Contains reviews for books on bead crochet, knitted and stitchery made purses.
Inside Miniatures: From time to time this section will contain information about miniature purses.
Beadwrangler Gallery: Images of other beaded purses including a few of my mini bags.
Crochet Gallery: The Crochet Gallery contains several color photos of beaded purses.
Previous Updates
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Vintage Bead Crocheted Rope/Lariat I have cataloged beaded bags, ropes and other vintage items for museums and private collectors. Occasionally people donate vintage items for my presentations. I have a few bead knitted bags from the 1830-1850's, some braided bead necklaces, a bead loom woven collar, right angle beaded necklaces and other items for my presentations in addition to my slides. I have always received these items from people at my presentations or from friends at organization meetings. I never expected to find a vintage rope in my Mom's jewelry. After my Mother died and my family had to divide up her mementos, I found an old bead crocheted rope fashioned lariat style. I knew my Mother did not make it as she never used beads in her work. She crocheted thread doilies and bed spreads, made quilts and worked needle stitchery, all without beads. My guess is she purchased this lariat in one of the thrifts shop visits. It is about 2 yards long, bead slip stitched with six beads in each round, worked in stripes of blue and amber beads with bead loops on each end. It was most liked created in the 1950's. I am enchanted with ropes and wondered where my Mom wore this lariat. She purchased jewelry at thrift stores and garage sales, however, she never wore many of the items as far as I know. She just loved jewelry. It is anyone's guess who the original owner was and who made the lariat. This is the first rope to be added to my collection of presentation material. I have created hundreds of ropes and one day perhaps they will be vintage items other people will enjoy and pass down to their family members or friends. Every bead and beaded piece has a story to tell. If you keep a note about each vintage piece, where you obtained it and what you know about it, then the next person to wear it can add to the story. |
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Miniature of 1950's bag This tiny bag is 2 1/4" wide by 1 3/4" high, lined with fabric and stitched in by hand. I crocheted this little bag included bead crochet in some of the areas of the bag. The beads are about size 18/0, vintage cut bronze glass beads. I made this bag as a miniature of larger bags popular in the mid-1950's through the early 1960's. These bags were full sized and sometimes had bead embellishment. I stitched a piece of fabric into the bag as the lining. I wear it on bead strung necklaces. This little bag could also be a designer bag for Barbie, Gene and other collectible dolls. |
Beaded Bags of Bohemia These bags gained popularity in the 1920's because the price for the bags with Czech beads was considerably less than the price of bead knitted bags made with Venetian beads. Most the Bohemian bags were made using a tambour hook on netting for a bead embroidery finish while other bags were embroidered with thread and needle. The Czech beads used at this time were much bigger than the Venetian beads, some as large as 9/0 beads worked in abstract, paisley and oriental patterns. Venetian beaded bags were still being made using primarily small beads at this time from sizes 13/0 to 24/0. (Beads on Bags, 1800's-2000, pgs. 170-171)
Soapwort Soapwort (Latin Saponaira officinalis) was once used as a vegetable soap for personal hygiene and for cleansing and restoring old fragile fabrics. According to a Herbal reference, it says to use the leaves and root. For a decoction, use half a root to 1 pint of water gently simmered for 20 minutes. One of my web viewers, Sheila-Bayes-Clayton, emailed me this information and indicated this was an old medieval recipe and was recommended to her by someone from the local Folk Lore Society in the UK. One of the seminars she attended included soapwort for the restoration of old tapestries and also for cleaning and repairing old wall and bed hangings from stately homes in the UK. Now if we can just find some of those roots and leaves maybe we can clean some of those old beaded bags!
Buttons Decorative buttons have been found in archaeological digs in the Indus Valley, Southern Asia, that date from about 2000B.C. These were made of seashells that were pierced for sewing onto a garment. Ages ago, Greeks and Romans used shell buttons to fasten their clothing like a broach. Bone and ivory were also carved for the same use. The name "button" did not evolve until the 1200's. Button comes from the French word "bouton" a bud, protuberance or any round object.
Button Holes Because clothing shape and design changed over the years, buttons used only as broaches became unpractical. Some of the new soft fabrics would tear with a sharp edge inserted into the material over and over. From about the 1200's on, buttons and button holes became a regular part of one's clothing. Buttons became so popular, slits in clothing were added so buttons and button holes could be added along the slits to close them. A hundred or more buttons were attached to one clothing item which meant a lot of time unbuttoning them when changing clothes. Some gentlemen wore thousands of buttons for decorations to their finery.
Button & Button Hole Mystery If you look at men's clothes, you immediately see men button clothes from "right to left." Looking at women's clothing, they are buttoned "left to right." Historically this practice goes back to the 1400's when men traveling and on the battlefield dressed themselves. Since most men are right-handed, they had their garments button from right to left. Women of that time who had expensive buttons on their clothing could afford maids to dress them. Most women are also right-handed. The maids dressed their mistresses while standing in front of them and the button and button holes being set in the reverse on their mistress clothing made it easier for them to fasten the clothing. Tailors continued to use the buttons and button holes in this order for all clothing. From that time on, buttons and button holes are still added to clothing in this manner.
Garment Pins These were the precursors to safety pins. Roman safety pins from c.500B.C. and although they were very rudimentary, there is a resemblance to modern safety pins. Garments pins prior to that such as those from the Bronze Age were long needle type shapes with a sharp end and a shape at the other end that was wider for hand grasping.
Fine Knitting/Crochet Thread A friend recently gave me a spool of thread with silk twist so thin on it, that it looks like a hair. The spool is wooden and on one end it says "Champion, Gudebrod Bros., No 7-0, Serum, 25 Proof Yds. On the bottom it is labeled "Silk Twist." At one time bead crocheted and knitted purses were worked with very thin thread when using the small beads such as 24/0. Now you know how they could string those beads with tiny holes; with the thin thread. The size listed 7-0 does not equate to our thread sizing today. I have never seen any thread on the market this thin. The thinnest silk twist today is much thicker than this thread.
Sable' Beadworked Bags The French beadworkers embroidered bags with extremely tiny beads. The word sable' means "covered much like sand." The beads were much smaller than size 20/0 beads and there were as many as 1,000 or more beads per square inch on the bags. Perhaps these were the 28/0 to 30/0 beads I have heard of that were made in the past. I have never seen this size bead. (Beads on Bags, 1800s-2000 by Winfield, Pina and Korosec)
Bead Crocheted Swag Bags There are some excellent examples of this stitch in the Beads on Bags, 1800s-2000 by Winfield, Pina and Korosec, page 65, the pink bag, upper right, and gray bag, lower left. On page 66 is a pink bag, lower right, that is also made with the same techniques.