Van Dyke Single - Left Handed
Row 1  Each row is worked in 5 color combos:  3C1, 1C2, 3C1.  String this 5 bead color combo, then skip the 1^st bead sticking out from the foundation row and pass the needle through the next.  Repeat this step across the foundation row.  At the end of the 1^st row of netting, work the needle back up through the 4 beads at the foundation row end, then pass the needle back down through the 3C1 and 1C2 you just strung, bringing the needle out to the point of that 5 bead color combo.  The C2 bead is the “point” bead for each bead color combo forming the netting.  You should have 8 “V” netted shapes for row 1.  Refer to fig.2.

 Row 2  Now you are ready to work the 2^nd row of netting.  String the same bead color combo and pass the needle across through the next point bead of the previous row.  Repeat this process across, adding a total of 7 bead color combos that form row 2 of the netting.  For the last “V” of row 2, take the needle up through 1C2 (point bead) of row 1 and the 4 foundation beads at the end, then bring the needle down through the 3C1 and 1C2 point bead to begin row 3.  There should be 7 netted “V” sections for row 2.  The thread should not show on the foundation bottom bead sticking out.

 Rows 3 through 8  Continue to decrease by one “V” of beads in each row until there is only one “V” for the 8^th row.  The needle is worked up through the previous row of netting, then back down to begin the next row.  Each time the needle is worked through a previous row of netting, zigzag through the netting, skipping the each side and bottom C2 point beads of the previous netting row.  This way the thread will not show outside the beads.  Look at the illustration with bead netting attached to the foundation row.(fig 3)  See figs. 4 a for close up view of thread path.  The Single Van Dyke was the standard shape for Victorian Van Dyke bead netting.  Notice how the Single Van Dyke draws up and the foundation is not straight.  This works perfect for larger netted necklaces which allow for a curve at the top working towards the neckline.

Van Dyke Single - Right Handed
Row 1  Each row is worked in 5 color combos:  3C1, 1C2, 3C1.  String this 5 bead color combo, then skip the 1^st bead sticking out from the foundation row and pass the needle through the next.  Repeat this step across the foundation row.  At the end of the 1^st row of netting, work the needle back up through the 4 beads at the foundation row end, then pass the needle back down through the 3C1 and 1C2 you just strung, bringing the needle out to the point of that 5 bead color combo.  The C2 bead is the “point” bead for each bead color combo forming the netting.  You should have 8 “V” netted shapes for row 1.  Refer to fig.2.

 Row 2  Now you are ready to work the 2^nd row of netting.  String the same bead color combo and pass the needle across through the next point bead of the previous row.  Repeat this process across, adding a total of 7 bead color combos that form row 2 of the netting.  For the last “V” of row 2, take the needle up through 1C2 (point bead) of row 1 and the 4 foundation beads at the end, then bring the needle down through the 3C1 and 1C2 point bead to begin row 3.  There should be 7 netted “V” sections for row 2.  The thread should not show on the foundation bottom bead sticking out.

 Rows 3 through 8  Continue to decrease by one “V” of beads in each row until there is only one “V” for the 8^th row.  The needle is worked up through the previous row of netting, then back down to begin the next row.  Each time the needle is worked through a previous row of netting, zigzag through the netting, skipping the each side and bottom C2 point beads of the previous netting row.  This way the thread will not show outside the beads.  Look at the illustration with bead netting attached to the foundation row.(fig 3)  See figs. 4 a for close up view of thread path.  The Single Van Dyke was the standard shape for Victorian Van Dyke bead netting.  Notice how the Single Van Dyke draws up and the foundation is not straight.  This works perfect for larger netted necklaces which allow for a curve at the top working towards the neckline.

Van Dyke Double
Make another Single Van Dyke and then work the opposite side of the diamond foundation in the beads sticking out, those not used for the Single Van Dyke.  The colors for this side will be different.  String 2C2, 1C1, 2C2 for each “V”.  Stitch through the first 4 beads of the diamond foundation and bring the needle out through the next, string 2C2, 1C1, 2C2 and continue across.  There will be 7 rows to begin and decrease down to one.  This side will be smaller than the original and will have colors switched for a contrast appearance.  This sample will lay flat.  If you make both sides the same number of beads to make the netting, it will not lay flat and tend to bunch up a little at both ends where the netting attaches both sides.  You can also make both sides with the 2-1-2 bead color combo on both sides and end out with a diamond flat shape.  See the samples.

Options   Van Dyke Quadruple Bead holes need to be large to allow the needle passage through additional times on both sides of the diamond foundation.  Make a two sided Van Dyke with 3 beads, 1 bead, 3 beads which can be set partially flat or bunched up.  Then make the next two Van Dykes with 2 beads, 1 bead, 2 beads and they will set on top the original two .  One netted group will be worked on each side through the same stitches as the original two Van Dyke pieces.  This will make a leaf type shape that can be added to beading as leaves and floral designs.  This design works well with Czech size 10/0 beads, Czech 8/0 hex beads, Delicas and size 14/0 Japanese beads because of the large bead holes.  You can also make the first set with size 8/0 Czech beads and add Czech 11/0 on top for the second set.  Note how the Delica sample lays flatter when the second set of Van Dyke Double was added on top in the smaller 2 bead-1 bead- 2 bead combo.