Beadwrangler Special Feature
November 14, 1998

The Spinner Ileana Somerson's
Weave World
The Weaver
November 1998
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Shuttle Spindle & Dyepot,  Fall 1998

The cover of the Fall 1998 Shuttle Spindle & Dyepot features a selection of prize winners from Convergence ‘98's Virtuoso! exhibition of yardage. Sponsored by Carnegie, a premier textile design and manufacturing company, the show contained 112 pieces of work, one more outstanding than the other.

The first place winner was Jorie C. Johnson’s felted wool on silk organza. Grand prize winner was Catharine Ellis Muerdter’s handwoven, resisted, dyed, discharged cotton piece. The pictures of all the pieces are worth studying.

Following the wonderful News and Information pages is a list of prizewinners of "Chairish the Future of Fibers!" Contest. Each of the 55 pieces had to be suitable for the seat of a chair or pillow cover. There are eight photos of winners’ pieces, and they all look great. Note that one of the winners made a 4-shaft double weave. How simple can you get?

The Books & Videos column reviews books on American craft at the Renwick Gallery (which owns a piece of my daughter’s furniture), basketmakers, Pakistani costume and textiles, knitting, and three on feltmaking. Guildview follows with such good ideas from many Guilds–worthy of reading and reaping. The 1998 Dendel and HGA Scholarship recipients, Judy Ness, Maria Schutt and Sheila Sagert were highlighted in a wonderful article offering inspiration to all weavers.

In "Right From the Start," Ann Kreckel gives a terrific lesson on using a supported spindle. Following her instructions should result in fine spinning. Next, the Gallery displays six works, most of them from Convergence ‘98. One, from Poland, is constructed from manipulated telephone book paper, acetate and staples.

To whet your appetite for the Small Expressions show in Jacksonville, look at the prizewinners plus a few glorious extras and then read the article by Micala Sidore on the jurying process. If this would inspire only one Pinellas weaver.

Be sure to read the Handweavers Guild Update and Lee Lawrence’s article on the "Unforgettable Convergence 98." Then salivate over "Celebrate!" Aptly subtitled "Rhythms & Hues," this article by Michelle Aldredge pictures some of the fashions seen in Atlanta. Lee A. Lawrence beautifully describes "C.A Michel: The Circle of Life." Using feathers and basket techniques, Michel creates wonderful forms. For a much more esoteric approach read about "Chiyoko Tanaka." a Kyoto artist who weaves fine silks, then grinds and abrades them. Carol Westfall tells how and why.

Sandra Swarbrick not only describes the "Teaching and Learning through Correspondence" program, but also tells of some weavers who have really benefitted from it. Don’t miss this one.

"Springwater Fiber Workshop" is the only art school in the Mid-Atlantic region dedicated solely to the fiber arts. Kristi Walseth tells of the school’s special relationship with local schools, museums and community arts activities. Children in the area of Alexandria, VA, are lucky to have this resource.See File


Weaver’s,  Fall 1998

The Fall 1998 issue of Weaver’s is all about Fibers! Some, such as Lyocell, I’ve never heard of.

It is a manufactured fiber, washable, durable, producing a wrinkle-resistant fabric with a soft hand. Eileen Hallman offers an explanation of the process and characteristics of lyocell, known commercially as Tencel or Lenzing.

Magdalene Aulik follows with "Shattered Crystals Scarf," with more information on the fiber, and Berna Lowenstein gives a beautiful "Autumn Leaves Scarf," using Tencel/cotton and painting the warp. Be sure to consult page 73 for a yarn chart which gives size, yards/pound, and three possible setts for cotton, Tencel, rayon, linen, etc.

Wire may not be soft and fuzzy, but Doramay Keasbey gives us "Weaving with Wire," an article which may inspire you to make one of the beautifully illustrated pieces.

Ruth Blau goes to the other extreme with "Rayon Chenille: A Primer." Here is just about everything you want to know about chenille. She gives specific instructions for a beautiful shawl. Next go to Jean Korus, who is"Seduced by Chenille." You will be, too, when you follow her instructions. The third excellent treatment of chenille is Priscilla Lynch’s "Crackle and Cotton Chenille." Learn about both crackle and chenille. Don’t miss Joy Batchelder’s project on "Cotton Chenille Placemats."

If you have a computer, be sure to read Alice Schlein’s "E-mail Etiquette for Weavers."Her nine commandments are priceless.

"Linen Bands from Tutankhamun’s Tunic" are done in Boundweave by Nancy Hoskins, who gives explicit and excellent directions, including the knots at beginning and end. For some beautiful "Linen Heirloom Towels," check out the Virginia West article and instructions. She also includes directions for Italian hemstitching. Next, Tracy Kaestner takes us on a four-day romp and makes "Linen and Hemp Table Squares." If you want to try linen, read these timely instructions.

Karen Selk takes us on a "Journey on a Silken Thread." Describing all the types of silk one might encounter, Karen also discusses combining silk with other fibers. Don’t be afraid to "whap" the washed silk you weave. For a "Simply Sophisticated Scarf," using many kinds of silk, read page 42.

"More cotton has been spun and woven throughout history than any other fiber in the world," says Mary Berent in "Cotton: The Common Thread." Here is a wealth of information on the subject, followed by directions for waffle-weave towels and twill-block towels.

"Triple-Weave Troubles" is aptly named by Judie Yamamoto. How many weavers want to produce a triple weave blanket or spread? Frankly, it has always been one of my hidden desires, but now that I have a 60" loom, perhaps double will do.

Sigrid Piroch gives us an appealing project–"Candy-Cane Coat for Tyler or...." This one mixes cotton and wool. Know any Northern dogs?

Actually, there’s not a lot of wool in this fibers collection. Connie Beauvais gives us an "Alpaca Shawl" in Huck Lace diamonds or plain weave, including many excellent suggestions. For instance, she suggests including a sewing-machine thread with the alpaca when weaving a header or a hem.

Tracy Kaestner uses reversing Twill to weave her little cotton whimseys, "Blue Angels." Metallic yarn makes them especially festive for the holidays. For additional Christmas ideas, check out Dorothy N. Smith’s "Christmas Cards in Metallics." Remember to place the spool of metallic on a horizontal rod so that the thread unrolls as the spool rotates as you wind your bobbins.

Kathleen Farling uses rayon ribbon in her "Deflected-Weft Cannele." This fascinating weave allows the display of luxury fibers such as chenilles and boucles.

And now for something a little different: "Differential Dyeing," by Jayne Flanagan, whose solution is to use dyeing as the last step in the weaving! Great idea!

There are other departments, such as "Reviews." They all sound so good–from memoirs by Jack Lenor Larson, an interactive way to learn weaving as well as the countermarch tie-up of a Toika, and the Neutrogena Collection.See File


Handwoven,  November/December '98

The November/December Handwoven highlights Liturgical Weaving and Bound-Weave Rugs. Starting out with Books, Etc., there are reviews of Skilled Work: American Craft in the Renwick Gallery, Beads as Warp and Weft, which I can’t wait to see, and Peggy Osterkamp’s New Guide to Weaving #1: Winding a Warp and Using a Paddle.

Story Cloth has some lovely personal experiences written up, and Tricks of the Trade is always worth reading. There are some nifty ideas here.

Following the interesting News and Events, there is an Idea Notebook. Here are "Lace Cross Bookmarks," designed by Loretta Stacy. These would be lovely items to include in your Christmas cards.

In Threads From the Past, Ruth Ronk writes a glowing tribute to Loraine Kessenich. She actually wove an artificial heart valve!

Liturgical Weaving includes a myriad of ideas. Susan J. White writes "Dressing for Christian Worship." She says that "To provide vestments for services of religious worship is to join in a great succession of those who dedicated their lives and their craft to the service of God." The alb, stole, chasuble and cope are explained. Directions for William Russell’s Celtic Stole and Kaulitz and Campbell’s Stole for All Seasons are given.

Laurie J. Kimmelstiel gives an excellent explanation of the Jewish prayer shawl and bag with directions given in the back section. She mentions other textiles, such as a challah cover, a matzoh cover, and a special towel for the ritual handwashing, for the home. For the Synagogue there are many textiles, such as curtains and valance for the Ark, as well as Torah mantles.

The following section shows a sampling of the response to the editor’s request for photos of liturgical weavings. They’re all lovely.

Sharon Alderman’s contribution to this issue is "Big and Little Threads: Size Matters." "Familiar weaves such as log cabin, windowpane check, basket weave, and shadow weave gain textural interest through contrasting sizes of yarn."

Shining Lights shows four wonderful items with complete instructions in the back. Dagmar Klos’ silk huck scarf, Vivian Morrison’s copper lurex dress fabric, Dagmar Klos’ indigo ikat scarf, and Andrew Nelson’s polyester fleece bath mat are all exquisite.

Betty Carlisle retired after 29 years of teaching in the visual arts department of the U. of Northern Colorado in Greeley. Her article, "A Semester to Weave Rugs," makes one wish she were a member of that last class. What beautiful results were obtained! Check out "A Wealth of Rugs" in the project section. Even if you don’t plan to weave one soon, read this section.

Under the rubric People & Places, Ann Kulpa writes a heartwarming story about the "Mountain Valley Weavers," a school for developmentally challenged persons. This is a "must-read."

The two pages of "The Handwoven Communique" contain some of the most amazing facts about textiles that I’ve encountered. Read them.

We mustn’t forget that last page, Unravelings. Here Linda Ligon writes "When I am an Old Woman..." Will she really repair to that remote, primitive mountain cabin, without electricity, indoor plumbing or telephone? Will she dye with local lichens and spin some glorious thread? Tune in later. How much later no one knows, for, as Linda asks, "How will I know when I’ve gotten to be an old woman?"

 ..........Ileana Somerson, November, 1998See File